Sorry
it's been a while since the last entry! Things have been crazy at work, but I'm still working wood and I still have plenty
more to share with you guys, so please bear with me. I've been
tracing the process of making a countertop. That has actually been done for a month or so, and I installed it on top of a run of cabinets in my shop. So today I'll backtrack a bit to cover flattening a big panel.
After
using the router to joint the boards, glue-up was a snap, and I got
glue joints as clean as I've ever gotten on boards as long and thick
as this. I was so excited about how nicely the boards went together
that I didn't use clamping cauls, and the completed countertop wasn't
as flat as I'd normally expect. As a result, I had lots of work to do
flattening the thing.
Years
ago I saw Toshio Odate demonstrate flattening wide planks with a hand
plane and he had no patience for people who wanted to use
winding sticks or other devices to tell them where to remove wood.
“Just look at it! Plane down the high spots!” (that's a rough
paraphrase, but it's pretty close to what he said.) I think he's
right, if you get plenty of practice. But I don't do this every day,
or even every month, so I work on the high spots for a little while,
and then check my work. For me, it's more important to take a little extra time and get a good result. Sometime in my life I may have more regular practice at this, and I promise to do it by eye at that point!
A 32”
wide by 90” long countertop, 1-7/8” thick, is too heavy to lift
and put into a planer, even if you have one wide enough. I have run
things about this size through my old Performax drum sander, but I
was much younger then (and even then, my back was killing me
aferwards). If it's this big, I much prefer to let the
workpiece sit still and bring the tool to it.
I
don't care if you use one of these,
Or one
of these,
Or
these,
Or
something else entirely like a belt sander. The principle is the
same: remove wood from the high spots, and the high spots only, until
your workpiece is flat. A workpiece this long and wide is so much
bigger than the tool being used that you need a nice long
straightedge to keep track of that. Here's mine:
but
there's nothing special about it, it's just long and straight. Lay it
down here and there to see where it's touching. If your piece is WAY
out of flat, that will be easy to see. Here's how it looked early in
the process. You can see the big gaps where the straightedge isn't
touching.
Later
on, it's harder to see where the high spots are, because you have
large flat areas that are only slightly higher than the few remaining
low spots. Once you reach this stage, I have an easier time if I use
something really thin under the straightedge to see where it's
touching and where it isn't. Writing paper is only a few thousandths
of an inch thick, so it's a very good indicator.
Wherever
the paper sticks under the straightedge, is a high point. Mark the
high areas with pencil, all over the piece, and plane or grind or
slice wood off until all your pencil marks are gone.
Then check the
whole surface again. It's a simple process, and can get monotonous,
but is very satisfying. Working on a big piece like this is a good
way to develop your hand plane technique. Also your sharpening
technique. These are good things.
A
couple of pointers:
If the
face you're working on is convex, don't take any wood away from the
outside edges until the very end. This is one place I agree with
David Charlesworth: you'll do more accurate work if you aim to
produce a very, very, slightly concave surface.
When
you do this with a hand plane, it's quickest to work
perpendicular to the grain, which isn't an intuitive way to work for
some people. However, the shavings actually come off more easily if
you cut across the grain, and you tend to get less bad tearout. On
the other hand, the surface you leave is rougher, almost fuzzier.
Here's
something I learned on this job: working across the grain with a
power planer creates shavings that choke the vacuum hose! Not sure
why, I think they tend to be longer than the shavings you create by
cutting along the grain.
Producing
an intact, very thin shaving across the grain is a pleasure. Look at
this beauty:
And
you can tell by the way it tapers off at the edges that I have an
appropriate amount of crown on the blade.
Go
make stuff! See you next time. I'll probably cover installing the
cabinets under this counter.
No comments:
New comments are not allowed.